It is usually an expression of genuine incredulity – you celebrate Christmas?
Yes, we do. Not only do we celebrate Christmas, but it is one of the public holidays observed in Ghana. Though a purely Christian event, it is observed by Ghanaians of all creeds as a season of family togetherness, goodwill, and great festivity.
It was that nostalgia that prompted our trip to Ghana for Christmas 2007. After a 14-hour flight, we landed at Accra's Kotoka International Airport.
The next morning found us at Makola market, the hub of the country's retail business activity. Located in Accra, the market has just about every commodity, from current electronic gadgets to designer clothes. It was not a prudent decision to go there. Hoards of shoppers choked the entrance to Makola. We nudged each other, slowly edging forward and repeatedly saying “Agoo, agoo” (“Can I pass?”) each step we took. Then there was what I described as the bargaining factor; one look at us and the sellers knew we were 'foreign Ghanaians.' The cost of goods suddenly quadrupled!
I was tired of Accra already, fed up with its busy-ness and clutter. At about one in the afternoon, we piled into my sister's SUV to head to our home town, Peki. It is in the towns and villages that the Christmas celebration is of great significance. As we settled down for the 90-minute drive, we told Kweku Ananse stories and sang carols in the spirit of the season. Upon arrival, I noticed busloads of celebrants had already arrived. Relatives, some waiting for hours at the local lorry stations, hugged each other and wished each other “Blonya Na Mi!” (“Merry Christmas to you all!”).
Our car navigated a slight hill, and we saw our burgundy gates as they flew open in anticipation. We were home for Blonya! Family members, some of whom had been in the kitchen preparing the meal, rushed to hug us with shouts of “Atuu, Atuu, Miawoezor” (“welcome”). As we unpacked, the rich aroma of sumptuous Ghanaian dishes rose to meet us. We felt very welcome indeed.
The 24th night celebrations began with traditional drumming and dancing. We grabbed our video camera and went to the schoolyard where the local folks offered free entertainment, including cantatas and concerts. Forget the jet lag. We were all very awake now; even my grandson was caught up in the celebratory mood.
We joined hands dancing the borboorbor and the agbadza. We were lost in that moment of common purpose, neighbourliness and bliss. I had forgotten how inclusive and communal Christmas celebrations are in Peki. The dancing continued until about 11, when church-goers went to attend the midnight services. Around candlelit pews, we sang carols to usher in the birth of Christ.
We hardly slept – the house was full of childish ecstasy as children rose early, bathed, and were ready for their gifts. It was Christmas morning, a time that all children look forward to. Wide-eyed, with excited chuckles, they tried on their new clothes. There was indescribable joy as our gifts, wrapped Canadian-style, were unwrapped one after the other.
We then attended a brief solemn meeting where relatives who had passed away during the year were remembered. Prayers were offered and libation poured for their souls.
The church was overflowing with people when we arrived. A small palm tree, decorated by local children, formed the Christmas tree. During the service, children enacted the nativity scene and some recited passages about the birth of Christ. It was the height of the Christmas celebration, as the children, immersed in their own realities, became the focus of the day.
The festivities continued after the church service and family feasts. Children literally went from door to door, showed off their new clothes and wished households Blonya Na Mi. In return, they received biscuits, soft drinks, and money.
In the afternoon, we again flocked into the yard, where young adults on stilts entertained the crowd. Then the music boomed and the beat reverberated into every home. We danced and danced and… this is heaven!
There are some who dance only once a year and it is at Christmas. To them, another dancing season was over. We just experienced the true meaning of Christmas – sharing brotherliness and love. Blonya Na Mi!
